Continuous developments for denim

Esther Pujol

As the numberone supplier of finishing ranges to the denim industry globally, the benefitsof the latest Monfort Eco Line are already being enjoyed by several of thesector’s leading manufacturers in both Asia and South America.

Denim manufacturing consumes huge amounts of energy andresources at virtually all stages of production, but especially during shrinkfinishing, and on conventional ranges, large volumes of water, steam, chemicalsand thermal energy are required. A significant portion of these resources,however, can be wasted without precise feeding, monitoring and control. 

This is an issue that Monforts engineers have successfullyaddressed with the Eco Line for denim, based on two key technology advances –the Eco Applicator for minimum application of the selected moist finishingchemicals and the ThermoStretch.

As an alternative to conventional padding, especially forwet-in-wet solutions, the Monforts Eco Applicator can significantly reduce theamount of applied humidity required prior to the stretching and skewing of thedenim fabric. It also allows mills to apply finishes to just one side of thefabric, or both, and even to apply separate finishes to each side, or tospecific areas of a fabric, for endless denim differentiation possibilities.

The Monforts ThermoStretch unit carries out the skewing(weft straightening), stretching and drying in a continuous process. 

A modified hotflue with reinforced and adjustable rolls fordetermining the longitudinal tension within the fabric, the ThermoStretchbenefits from a structure detector with Pleva SD 1 camera technology employingtransmission and reflection lighting for the highest detection capability, inorder to carefully measure and control the fabric width and the skewing. 

Due to its large number of guide rolls, it is possible tostretch damp fabric in a heated chamber at a longitudinal tension of between200-300 N with the ThermoStretch, compared to the high forces of up to 4,000 Nthat have previously been required to finish a typical denim fabric with astarting width of 157cm and a finished width of 151cm.

 “Due to these innovations, the Eco Line system reducesenergy requirements and losses, increases thermal transfer and keeps the dryingenergy on the textile material longer,” says Monforts Vice President Sales andMarketing Klaus A. Heinrichs. “As a result energy savings of up to 50% arebeing achieved. We will be introducing a number of new innovations for denim inthe near future, including a solution for the introduction of two-way superstretch into denim in a single processing step.”


 

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